With eyes painted black, you will lure your
husband and warn all jinn. I watched my host mother laugh deeply while the
women around her agreed in ululation and lolled their tongues while she smeared
kohl under her niece’s eyes. I had never seen such a beautiful bride.
(National Geographic)
The Pyramids. The Nile. Egyptian eyes. In any dusty
tourist-y shop around Egypt, you can find postcards and hokey antiquities
memorabilia etched with images of Aankhs, Cleopatra, and hieroglyphs. The most
seductive and exotic image of them all are dark painted eyes. When I was in a
gift shop idly looking at gallabeyas I
bumped into a British tourist, a true pyramidiot (she insisted she was Nefertiti
incarnated), who was fascinated by my eyes and insisted I was Egyptian. “I want
to paint my eyes like yours so I will look like a queen”. She bought a stick of
eyeliner labeled Cleopatra Kohl for
100 Egyptian pounds (roughly 17 dollars. 12 dollars too much). I don’t blame her romantisization.
Popular depictions of Ancient Egypt in the West portray sultry queens with
intensely lined eyes captivating and seducing Pharaohs and audiences. Elizabeth
Taylor’s look in Cleopatra inspired an entire era of fashion and lines
of cosmetics around the world. Egyptian cosmetic aesthetics, however, aren’t simply
ornamental. The darkening of eyes in Egypt has a fascinating history of purpose
deeper than face value: spirituality, curing ailments, and warning spirits.
(Science NOW)
Pharaonic Eyes: Medicine and Beauty
The first uses of eye enhancement cosmetics can be traced to
the earliest tombs. There were three main types of kohl and eye paints- malachite (green copper ore), galena (grey
lead ore), and a soot made from burning vegetation and organic matter (Lucas
42). The method of application was not as efficient and simple as the eyeliner
we have taken for granted in little L’Oreal tubes and Este Lauder twist-off
pencils. The malachite and galena eye paints were made into cakes and were
placed on elaborately carved palettes. Ancient Egyptians had to apply the
paints by grinding pigments and dipping in water or oil to apply. Kohl made from soot was and continues to
be used as a loose powder applied with the tip of the finger (Lucas 43).
I know what you are thinking. Why would the ancient
Egyptians paint their eyes with lead? Eyeliner was used to cure of eye
ailments. In an article published in Science Now, the combination of lead salts
in the liner described in religious scrolls and found in tombs (Cottingham).
Modern day kohl made of soot also has
feeling properties. According to Dr. Sandra Diane Lane, a scholar who
specializes in medical anthropology in Egypt, writes about communities in Upper
Egypt that still apply kohl to combat
eye disease and inflammation (Lane 162). Ingredients such as lemon juice, salt,
nutmeg, and aloe vera are added to the cosmetics for medical purposes for both
men and women (Lane 178).
Beautiful Beware: Eyeliner as Magic
Kohl had and
continues to have spiritual values to protect against the evil eye (Hawass). When
I was in Nubia during Eid break, I lived in a Nubian village called Garb El
Sahel (across from Aswan) with a host family. My host mother’s niece and nephew
were getting married and I was invited to experience the wedding from the men’s
side and the women’s side. It was interesting to be engaged with both spaces and parties because I could get a holistic
understanding and experience of the wedding. Because of my unique position of
knowing the groom’s (arris) party and
the bride’s (arrusa) party, I was
able to sit with the women inside the home and outside with men smoking shisha
by the barbershop where the arris was
preparing for the wedding. As Dr. Anne Jennings describes in her book The
Nubians of West Aswan, being a woman studying a high- context society, in
which gender roles are complementary and segregated in inner and outer spaces,
enables her the ability to fluctuate between gender- specific spaces and gain
access where a male scholar might not be able to (Jennings 3). During the
wedding, I too felt that I had the opportunity to go between spaces because I
was considered an outsider woman by the arris’s
party so strict gender codes were loosened for me. The arrusa’s party, however, saw me as one of their own because I was a
young woman travelling by myself and thus reached out to me as mothers or
sisters.
During the henna party, I sat with the woman and tried to
parse through the Arabic gossip. My host sister Fatima explained everything
around me. There was a strong earthy smoky smell in the air and I asked Fatima
about it. She told me that her mother was making kohl from dates. I was immediately interested. How could eyeliner
be made from dates. I first wanted to know why the Nubian women used eyeliner
in the first place other than for aesthetics purposes. Fatima told it was for
women to stare down the evil eye and free her from bad omens that might shake
her on her wedding night.
(ABC. Photo of half submerged date trees in Old Nubia during the building of High Dam)
Dates were extremely
important to the cultural economy on Old Nubia. Before Nasser’s High Dam was
built and the Nubian community dispersed to Aswan and other shanty villages in
the desert, Old Nubia laid out on the banks of the Nile and it was said that
there were more than one million date palm trees that provided shade and raw
material to the Nubian way of life. Every part of the tree was used- the bark
for rope, the fronds for beds and mats, the body to construct fences and
barriers to keep in livestock, seeds of dates were used to make kohl, and the dates as food and
currency. When Old Nubia was submerged by dam construction, Nubians lost their
currency and had to resort to paper money and coins. Even though the trees were
lost, dates and palm trees are still a pride for the Nubian community and
visible in every fabric of the village community: dates were served to guests
at the wedding. Men and women lounged on couches made from sturdy date fronds. Date
palm wine was secretly drunk by older men outside the wedding party. Date
seed eyeliner lined the eyes of the blushing bride.
I watched her attend to the charring date pits and was
impressed by the DIY (do it yourself) hack of natural surroundings. I was also
amazed that this tradition of preparing kohl
is more than 5,000 years old and was enfolding before my very eyes.
DIY
Preparing kohl the
Nubian (and Pharonic) way is simple but takes some time. If you are interested
in wearing the same style of eyeliner the Ancient Egyptian wore years ago, here
are the steps in order to make it with the comfort in your kitchen and with materials
you have in your cabinets. You do not need an open fire like the Nubian women
did when I was attending the wedding. With a simple stove, spatula, mortar and
pestle, pot, oil, and patience, you can make Pharonic kohl. You don’t have to be 17 dollar eye pencil at a touristy shop
in Upper Egypt to have eyes painted like Cleopatra’s.
1
11. First, seed the dates by removing the soft outer layer. The dates make a tasty treat when roasting the seeds.
11. First, seed the dates by removing the soft outer layer. The dates make a tasty treat when roasting the seeds.
22. Place the seeds in the center of the pot or pan and
set your stove on full blast.
3. The seeds will start to blacken after 15
minutes. Turn the seeds over so they blacken uniformly. You can turn them over
with a spatula.
4. After 30- 45 minutes, the seeds will look a bit
darker. Keep eating dates as you sit patiently.
5.
After an hour or so, the seeds will be
completely black.
6.
At this time, the seeds will be a bit softer so
with a spatula, you can break chips off the seeds.
7.
Turn down the stove and try to break the pieces
down carefully so small pieces do not fly out of the pan. When the charred pits
are cool, mash with a mortar and pestle until extremely fine.
8.
Your eyeliner should be ready! It should be
extremely fine and powdered. In the picture I made, I roasted a handful of
seeds and my kohl should last me a
month. I estimate that half of a pit should be enough for one use. Mix 1 drop
of olive oil to the fine soot. And you have Pharonic eyeliner!
I look and feel like a goddess. Priya-tari, your royal
highness.
Works Cited
Cottingham, Katie. "Egyptian
Eyeliner May Have Warded Off Disease –
ScienceNOW."
Science/AAAS | News - Up to the minute news and
features from
Science.. N.p., 8 Jan. 2010. Web. 7 Dec.
2012.
Hawass, Zaki. Personal interview. 1
Dec. 2012.
Jennings, Anne M. The Nubians of
West Aswan: village women in the midst
of change. Boulder: L. Rienner Publishers, 1995. Print.
Lucas, A. "Perfumes and
Incense in Ancient Egypt." The Journal of Egyptian
Archaeology 16.1/2 (1930): 41-53. Print.
Lane , Sandra Dianne. "A
Biocultural Study of Trachoma in an Egyptian
Hamlet." UMI
1 (1988): 1-225. Print.